Walking in Amalfi (or: ruins and views, without the crowds)

Wednesday, 29 April 2015

Italy's Amalfi Coast is unequivocally stunning; soaring scenery, sparkling seas and wisteria-covered buildings. But at peak travel season it’s also incredibly, frustratingly busy - with hoards of fellow tourists lining the sea fronts and car upon car jamming the roads.

An out-of date Rough Guide, bought for the map, provided the inspiration for an escape; “A Walk to the Torre dello Zio” promising derelict paper mills and precipitous views.

Beginning in the centre of Amalfi, we skipped up past the paper museum and onto a steep set of stairs, suddenly finding ourselves sweeping upwards into rocky cliffs. 

The path meanders alongside rivers, pools and waterfalls – not to mention the many ruined paper mills; haunting relics of Amalfi’s once prolific paper trade.

Eventually, signs to civilisation begin again - pointing the way to Pontone town. The first humans we'd seen in two hours descended as we climbed; Italian locals, asserting that "this is the real Amalfi!"

Climbing further up through Pontone, we were rewarded with those promised views – stretching over terraces of lemon groves and out to sea.

Now in serious need of shade and lemon granita, we headed back in what we thought was the right direction, instead taking a picturesque (but lengthy) detour through to Minori...

April 2014, 7 Days Italy - Sorrento, Amalfi, Salerno
Fujifilm x10

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